Saturday, May 01, 2021

Death by Soda Bread



 What made so many of us turn to baking when the earth wobbled on its axis last year? Were we afraid that the only way we'd be 'given our daily bread' was if we learned to make it ourselves? Whatever the reason, it's kind of cliched by now. If you can bear it, herewith - one more tale of baking struggles.

When I was growing up, Francis the Breadman arrived o n our street, every evening, in the bakery van. My mother would send me out with money and instructions for which kind of loaf she wanted. I can still see friendly Francis in his green bakery coat, his curly head disappearing into the back of the van and reappearing as he pulled out a tray of fresh loaves. Most of all, I can still smell the heady aroma of those loaves. My favorite was the cottage loaf. I'm salivating just remembering it.

But, we didn't get bread from Francis every evening. My mother would often bake her own but never with yeast. She'd grown up on my grandmother's soda bread out on the farm, so that was her go-to recipe. Breakfast for us, on school days, was often a big bowl of porridge followed by thick slices of soda bread slathered with butter, washed down with mugs of hot, sweet, milky tea. After that, no matter what challenges the day ahead brought, we were prepared to do battle as we pedaled off to school. Sounds like a recipe for fattening children but we were lean as greyhounds.

I have had, like the rest of the world, my sourdough adventures in recent months, a steep learning curve with some good results, some not so good; a lot of good flour under the bridge to keep it fed. Still working on it. 



But, this past week I was craving soda bread. No starter, no yeast required. I have a few favorite recipes, but any recipe with the main ingredients will usually turn out fine. I found one on Google (I sometimes wonder why I keep all my cookbooks, and folders of clipped recipes, as I so often turn to Google instead!)

Flour? check. Salt? check. Sugar? check. Baking powder. check. Buttermilk? Hmm. Fingers crossed as I go to the fridge. check! There it is, lurking in the back. The sell by date is a few weeks past but the eyes and the nose detect nothing funky. Onward. Toss in a cup of juicy raisins, stir it all together, pop it in the oven, set the timer....

And wait, in confident anticipation.

But....

It was a disaster!

 Instead of rising, and doubling in size, it looked the same size as when I'd popped it in. 

"Here's a job for you, Sherlock," I thought (after I'd finished groaning.)

Sherlock ascertained that we were still well within the 'best if used by' date on the baking powder. Though it was the very dregs, as the can was almost empty. 

I let it cool. Who knew? Magic could still happen.  Wishful thinking -  another of my talents.

Sad to report, no magic happened.

What a surprise.

By and by the OC arrived home. Even though it smelled of baking, I warned him not to get his hopes up. That, even though it might seem I had made soda bread, what I had, in fact, made was a block of cement. 

"Not to worry," I said, "it won't be a total waste. I'll feed it to the birds."

But I wasn't quick enough. The birds never got it. 

Maybe the OC is an optimist. Or a
masochist? Either way, he has been chipping away at that block of cement, grimacing all the while, in spite of me protesting 

 "You don't have to eat that! It's gonna to kill you!" 

"It reminds me of hardtack in the military," he said, with a faraway look in his eyes (and a grimace.) 

Those must be good memories, though, somehow, I doubt it.

Possibly it's a test. If it doesn't kill him, will it make him stronger? 

There are only two slices left. (Maybe I'll sneak them out to the birds... but, will the bird mamas then swoop down and peck me to death for trying to kill their babies?)



 His mother, who learned the hard way in the last world war to never waste a crumb, must be looking down smiling.

  But not at me. 

This would be proof that she was right. That the chances were good that her boy would die, with me in his kitchen. Which makes me love the friends who think I can actually cook and bake, bless their innocence.  Never mind that they only see or taste my successes. The OC suffers through all my disasters. Apparently willingly, or perhaps as penance for his sins.

After fifty years though, he's still alive and kicking.


  One way or the other, I had to redeem myself so I made soda bread again today - with fresh ingredients.

(That's it at the top - I had to start with something tempting. If I'd put those cement slices first you'd never have lasted to here.) 

And this time it is delicious. 

My tiara is on straight again.

10 comments:

Bijoux said...

I love Irish soda bread with lots of raisins. I just add lemon juice to milk instead of buying buttermilk.

Elephant's Child said...

I am glad to hear that you are wearing your crown again. I wonder what the problem was.
I have made bread but not for years. Yeasted bread. I have looked at sourdough (because I love it) and walked away.
I have been considering soda bread, and may have to take the plunge. We really don't eat a lot of bread here though and I wonder whether it is worthwhile.

Sabine said...

That must have been tough, soda bread is meant to be easy. My MIL would mix a batch ready for baking while chatting with the phone pinched between her shoulder and neck.
I love the raisin and rosemary soda bread recipe, and yes, ALL recipes are online, cookbooks are for nostalgia freaks.
While we lived in Ireland, we would bake a lot of sourdough and yeast bread at home because we felt superior. In the 1980s and earlier, most "bread" in Ireland was white, sliced and soft and packed in plastic - apart from soda bread. Here in Germany, we live within walking distance to seven bakeries with at least 70 different types of sourdough/yeast loaves on the shelves every morning, and that's in a the suburb. Some so wholewheaty and healthy you probably go straight to bread heaven.
We all secretly loved a buttery slice of white toast - or three - in the days. Still do.

molly said...


Bijoux - I've done that too but I prefer having buttermilk at hand. I remember, in my uncle's farmyard back home the used to have a big barrel of buttermilk all clabber-y and lumpy. not sure if it was for use in cooking or just to feed to the pigs! Probably the latter.

EC - I'm pretty sure the baking powder I used had lost its get-up-and-go. As for my crown it gets lop-sided regularly. I'm constantly having to readjust it.

Sabine - Oh, it is easy! That's one of its charms - so difficult to mess up. Rosemary sounds like an intriguing addition. I'll have to try it. The thought of seven decent bakeries within walking distance makes me drool! That was one of the great pleasures of living in Stuttgart and one of the greatest let-downs on returning to the US.

gz said...

Yes, baking powder does lose it..I mostly use 2 cream of tartar to 1 bicarbonate of soda if the raising is critical.

Wisewebwoman said...

I have a stalwart recipe Molly that never fails. Also baking soda with the baking powder for a good rise. So easy as you say. 2 and 1/2 cups of white flour to 1 and 1/2 brown (whole wheat) flour.

XO
WWW

Secret Agent Woman said...

I didn't. In fact, my sourdough starter perished early in the pandemic and I was too busy to fool with starting it again.

molly said...


gz - You know, I knew that? Must be getting lazy - to blindly follow whatever google offers up when I know better. Lesson learned!

WWW - Any time you want to share - I'm all ears. Should have stuck with my tried and trues...and what gz said. What I really wish is that we could get the coarser flour that they use at home.

SAW - I was sure my starter would have died when I returned after a month in out west earlier this year. I was delighted with myself when it came roaring back to life after a couple of feedings. But I think I almost prefer Mark Bittman's no-knead recipe. That is something that tastes amazing and is a cinch to make.

Pam said...

You're so fortunate to be innately lean as a greyhound. I hope you realise this...

molly said...


Pam - Haha! I guess I do realise it, but my doctor keeps nagging me about going on some bone medicine that would lessen the chance of breaking a hip if I should fall, giving me grim predictions about how drastically that would change my life. But when I read, in the fine print, about its possible side effects, I'm inclined to want to take my chances and not risk being one of the special few those side effects could be visited upon!